However sometimes I might want to change the tonality of just a portion of the image (i.e., in addition to changing the sky, I also want to change the B&W tone of a red flower to separate it from green foliage), and I am not sure if the Channel Mixer is the right tool for that level of work. Yes, I could do the B&W conversion AND darken blues in greens in one step - albeit for the entire image - by using just the Channel Mixer. I think that is because the Color Zones module occurs in the pixel pipe AFTER both Channel Mixer and Lut 3D, so by the time pixels get to the Color Zones module, the pixels in the pixel pipe are just shades of gray - so there would be no blue and green pixels for the Color Zones module to work on. To do this I convert my image to B&W using one of the two modules I described above, and then (ideally) use the Color Zones module to darken blues and greens (mimicking what a yellow filter would do)… However when I tried doing just that with Color Zones it didn’t work right, Color Zones having almost no affect. Now with darktable I don’t need to attach a yellow filter to my lens, I should be able to get the same effect digitally. This would result in an exposed negative which would print with a darkened sky making the clouds pop more.
Here’s my issue: Back when I was shooting B&W on film, I would expose a frame of film with a (for example) yellow filter over the lens. However, if I’m not going to use a Lut, I’ll use Channel Mixer. For the record, Lut 3D is my preference - I’ve found some B&W Luts that - in my opinion - produce some good looking images. While there is more than one way to convert a color image to B&W in darktable, I decided to focus on two for my use: 1) Channel Mixer, and 2) Lut 3D.
I’m trying to improve my B&W processing skills with darktable 3.2.1 and have a question for everyone here.
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